The average water heater lasts 8-12 years.
But here’s what most homeowners don’t realize: with proper maintenance, that same water heater can last 15-20 years. Without maintenance, it might fail in just 6 years.
That’s a difference of potentially $2,000-$4,000 in replacement costs—not counting the water damage that often accompanies a catastrophic failure.
This guide covers everything Chattanooga homeowners need to know about water heater maintenance, from simple DIY tasks to knowing when it’s time to call a professional.
Why Water Heater Maintenance Matters
Your water heater is one of the hardest-working appliances in your home.
Consider this: a family of four uses approximately 60-80 gallons of hot water per day. That’s 22,000-29,000 gallons per year flowing through your water heater.
All that water carries minerals, sediment, and dissolved gases that gradually damage your system.
What happens without maintenance:
| Problem | Consequence |
|---|---|
| Sediment buildup | Reduced efficiency, higher energy bills, tank corrosion |
| Corroded anode rod | Tank rust, premature failure, leaks |
| Failing T&P valve | Safety hazard, potential tank rupture |
| Scale accumulation | Reduced capacity, element failure, noise |
| Neglected connections | Leaks, water damage, flooding |
The math is simple: A few hours of annual maintenance can save you thousands in repairs, replacements, and water damage remediation.
Understanding Your Water Heater
Before diving into maintenance, let’s understand how your water heater works.
Tank Water Heaters
The most common type in Chattanooga homes. A large insulated tank (typically 40-80 gallons) stores hot water, keeping it ready for use.
Key components:
- Tank – Steel vessel lined with glass or enaite to prevent corrosion
- Heating element – Gas burner or electric elements that heat the water
- Thermostat – Controls water temperature
- Anode rod – Sacrificial metal rod that attracts corrosive elements
- Dip tube – Directs cold water to the bottom of the tank
- T&P relief valve – Safety device that releases pressure if tank overheats
- Drain valve – Allows you to drain the tank for maintenance
Tankless Water Heaters
Also called “on-demand” heaters. These units heat water as it flows through, without storing it.
Key components:
- Heat exchanger – Heats water as it passes through
- Flow sensor – Detects when hot water is needed
- Computer control – Manages heating and diagnostics
- Inlet filter – Screens debris from incoming water
- Venting system – Exhausts combustion gases (gas units)
Annual Maintenance Checklist for Tank Water Heaters
Perform these tasks once per year to maximize your water heater’s lifespan.
Task 1: Flush the Tank to Remove Sediment
Why it matters: Minerals in Chattanooga’s water settle at the bottom of your tank over time. This sediment:
- Creates a barrier between the heating element and water, reducing efficiency
- Causes rumbling, popping, or banging noises
- Accelerates tank corrosion from the inside
- Reduces your tank’s effective capacity
Time required: 30-45 minutes
Tools needed: Garden hose, bucket, flathead screwdriver or pliers
Step-by-step process:
-
Turn off the power
- Gas: Turn the gas valve to “pilot” position
- Electric: Turn off the circuit breaker
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Turn off the cold water supply to the tank (valve on top)
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Connect a garden hose to the drain valve at the bottom of the tank
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Run the hose to a floor drain, outside, or into buckets
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Open a hot water faucet somewhere in the house to allow air into the system
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Open the drain valve and let water flow
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Let it drain until the water runs clear (may take 5-15 minutes)
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Briefly turn on the cold water supply to stir up remaining sediment, then let it drain again
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Close the drain valve and remove the hose
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Turn on the cold water supply and let the tank refill
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Wait until water flows steadily from the open hot water faucet, then close it
-
Restore power once the tank is full
Pro tips:
- The first water out will be very hot—use caution
- If the drain valve is clogged, you may need a plumber to clear it
- If you haven’t flushed in years, expect murky water and more sediment
- Consider flushing twice yearly if you have hard water
Task 2: Test the Temperature and Pressure Relief Valve
Why it matters: The T&P valve is a critical safety device. If your tank overheats or pressure builds too high, this valve releases water to prevent a dangerous rupture.
A failed T&P valve can lead to tank explosion—rare, but catastrophic when it happens.
Time required: 5 minutes
Tools needed: Bucket
Step-by-step process:
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Place a bucket under the discharge pipe (the pipe running down from the valve)
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Lift the lever on the T&P valve for 3-5 seconds
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Water should flow freely through the discharge pipe
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Release the lever—water should stop immediately
-
Check for dripping—if it continues dripping, the valve needs replacement
Warning signs that require professional attention:
- No water flows when you lift the lever
- Water continues dripping after you release the lever
- The valve is corroded or stuck
- Water is discolored or has a foul odor
Task 3: Inspect and Replace the Anode Rod
Why it matters: The anode rod is your tank’s first line of defense against corrosion.
Made of magnesium or aluminum, this “sacrificial” rod attracts corrosive elements in the water. The rod corrodes instead of your tank. When the rod is depleted, your tank starts rusting from the inside.
Time required: 15-30 minutes
Tools needed: 1-1/16” socket wrench (or appropriate size), breaker bar for leverage
Step-by-step process:
-
Turn off the power and cold water supply
-
Locate the anode rod—usually on top of the tank, may be under a plastic cap
-
Use the socket wrench to unscrew the rod (may require significant force)
-
Pull the rod out and inspect it
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Replace if:
- Less than 1/2 inch thick
- Coated with calcium deposits
- Core wire is visible
- Significantly corroded
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Install the new rod with plumber’s tape on the threads
-
Restore water and power
Replacement schedule: Every 3-5 years, or sooner if you have a water softener (softened water is more corrosive to anode rods).
Cost: Anode rods cost $20-$50. Replacing one can add 5+ years to your tank’s life.
Task 4: Check for Leaks and Corrosion
Why it matters: Small leaks often indicate larger problems developing. Catching them early prevents water damage and emergency replacements.
Time required: 10 minutes
What to inspect:
- Base of the tank – Any water pooling?
- Inlet and outlet connections – Moisture, rust, or mineral deposits?
- T&P valve and discharge pipe – Dripping or corrosion?
- Drain valve – Leaking or corroded?
- Tank exterior – Rust streaks or bulging?
Action items:
- Tighten loose connections
- Replace corroded fittings
- Call a plumber for tank rust or persistent leaks
Task 5: Check and Adjust Temperature Settings
Why it matters: Most water heaters ship set at 140°F, but 120°F is sufficient for most households.
Benefits of lowering to 120°F:
- Reduces energy consumption by 3-5%
- Decreases scalding risk (especially important with children or elderly)
- Slows mineral buildup and corrosion
- Extends tank and element life
How to adjust:
- Gas heaters: Adjust the dial on the gas valve
- Electric heaters: Adjust thermostats behind access panels (turn off power first)
Note: If you have a dishwasher without a booster heater, you may need 140°F for proper sanitization.
Maintenance for Tankless Water Heaters
Tankless units require different maintenance than tank heaters.
Annual Descaling (Flushing)
Why it matters: Scale buildup from hard water reduces efficiency and can damage the heat exchanger—the most expensive component to replace.
Time required: 45-60 minutes
Tools needed: Descaling kit (includes pump, hoses, and bucket) and white vinegar or commercial descaler
Process overview:
- Turn off power and gas
- Close isolation valves
- Connect circulation pump and hoses
- Circulate vinegar solution through the unit for 45-60 minutes
- Flush with clean water
- Restore normal operation
Recommendation: Many homeowners prefer to have a professional perform tankless descaling, especially for the first time.
Clean the Inlet Filter
Why it matters: The inlet filter screens debris from incoming water. A clogged filter reduces flow and can trigger error codes.
Frequency: Every 6 months, or more often if you have sediment issues
Process:
- Turn off water supply
- Remove the filter (usually at the cold water inlet)
- Rinse under running water
- Reinstall
Check for Error Codes
Tankless units have diagnostic systems that display error codes when problems occur.
Common codes and meanings:
| Code | Typical Meaning |
|---|---|
| 11, 12 | Ignition failure |
| 14, 16 | Overheating |
| 61, 65 | Fan/blower issues |
| 71, 72 | Flame issues |
| LC | Scale buildup (descaling needed) |
Consult your owner’s manual for specific codes. Persistent error codes require professional diagnosis.
Warning Signs Your Water Heater Needs Attention
Between annual maintenance, watch for these warning signs:
Immediate Attention Required:
- Water pooling around the base – Tank may be failing
- Rust-colored hot water – Internal corrosion
- Rotten egg smell – Bacterial growth or failing anode rod
- Visible rust on tank exterior – Corrosion breakthrough
- Water leaking from T&P valve – Pressure or temperature issues
Schedule Service Soon:
- Rumbling, popping, or banging noises – Sediment buildup
- Inconsistent water temperature – Failing thermostat or element
- Reduced hot water capacity – Sediment or failing components
- Higher energy bills – Reduced efficiency
- Age over 10 years – Consider proactive replacement planning
When to Call a Professional
Some maintenance tasks are DIY-friendly. Others require professional expertise.
Call a plumber for:
- Gas line work or gas valve issues
- Electrical problems (electric heaters)
- Anode rod that won’t budge
- T&P valve replacement
- Persistent leaks
- Error codes you can’t resolve
- Any work you’re not comfortable doing
Professional maintenance typically includes:
- Complete system inspection
- Sediment flush
- Anode rod inspection/replacement
- T&P valve testing
- Thermostat calibration
- Efficiency assessment
- Safety check
Cost: Professional water heater maintenance typically runs $80-$150 in Chattanooga.
The True Cost of Neglecting Maintenance
Let’s do the math on what skipping maintenance really costs:
| Consequence | Cost |
|---|---|
| Premature tank failure (5 years early) | $1,000-$2,500 |
| Emergency replacement (rush service) | +$200-$500 |
| Water damage from tank failure | $1,000-$10,000+ |
| Increased energy bills (20-30% efficiency loss) | $100-$200/year |
| Total potential cost of neglect | $2,500-$15,000+ |
Cost of annual maintenance:
| Approach | Annual Cost |
|---|---|
| DIY maintenance | $0-$50 (materials) |
| Professional maintenance | $80-$150 |
The choice is clear: a small investment in maintenance prevents major expenses.
Water Heater Maintenance Schedule
Use this schedule to stay on track:
Monthly:
- Visual inspection for leaks
- Listen for unusual noises
- Check for consistent hot water
Every 6 Months:
- Test T&P valve
- Check temperature setting
- Inspect visible connections
Annually:
- Flush the tank
- Inspect anode rod
- Complete system inspection
- Professional service (recommended)
Every 3-5 Years:
- Replace anode rod
- Consider professional deep cleaning
Key Takeaways
- Annual maintenance can double your water heater’s lifespan
- Flushing removes sediment that reduces efficiency and causes damage
- The anode rod is critical—a $30 part can save thousands
- Test the T&P valve annually for safety
- Watch for warning signs between maintenance visits
- Call a professional for gas work, electrical issues, or anything you’re not comfortable doing
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